On the Ranges

Heavy rain, thunder and lightning and had been non-stop for the past 13 hours or so. Roads in Colombo are flooded; which happens invariably during the rainy season.

A few days back, had been to one of the most beautiful places in Sri Lanka, Riverston, which is 180 km away from Colombo, in the Central Province. This place boasts of the famous Knuckles ranges – which is the vast expanse of mountain ranges, as if they stretch to eternity. Foggy at times, clear in the next moment, shades of dark green and grey combine to create images as if the creator had sat with a special paint brush and done a tapestry and marveled every moment of his creation.

Having had the breakfast at a restaurant, by a riverside, where the ambiance and the tasteful architecture, were as appealing as the hot hoppers and the traditional Sri Lankan meal, we proceeded upward. Travelling up the hill country from Colombo is indeed a unique experience albeit the mounting traffic in Kandy - the citadel of culture, arts, history and scenic beauty – all combined. When the business of the city wanes, the quietude of the village sets in; at once.

Matale, a quiet Sri Lankan town, famous for its spices and cool weather is also facing change – roads are being widened in a large way; tractors, JCBs are all at work to connect with the rest of the country. They say, infrastructure development, especially the road network, is the first sign of marching towards development. So be it, for Sri Lanka, I wish, hope…

All of a sudden, you are the only traveler on the road ! Amazing. This is when the climb starts – numerous hair- pin bends always hold the suspense as to what it is to be next… The buzz of the wind – so clear and loud and the cool breeze on your face, and absolute quietude with yourself and the rest of the world as if nothing existed other than these ranges and your wanton thoughts … ! A perfect abandon it was just to stand at the top, watch the sky marrying the ranges, with a silent brook behind you…to feel light, unseen, unheard – stop thinking for a while and just feel... a drop or two of the drizzle on your face… so cold!

Somewhere far away there was a village school – girls in white uniform waved … and they were playing and screaming off in Tamil and had no care in the world while they played! They kept of waving until I went out of sight.

These ranges are mixed with tea gardens; a lonely tea plucker or two on the road, a few villagers who return from the jungles after plucking wild nelli are the only people found on the road to ask for the route. Life in the ranges must be hard for them, though it is a marvel for me. For a moment I wondered how these people manage their day- to- day living, in terms of medicines, schooling and all what it takes to live – day by day. Amazing it was – a few of them did have a mobile phone! Sure, they are connected with the rest of the world for 2 rupees per minute, or free outgoing – incoming call packages of N number of companies, whose lit-up, gigantic billboards provide immense illumination in Colombo in the nights.

There was a lonely restaurant with a perfect view that served lunch – no surprises; they were neither interested in the order placed nor interested in preparing the bill ! But sure, they were innocent villagers who aspire to be more enterprising. They had pure honey (made out of the Palm tree), when poured over curd makes one of the delicious Sri Lankan desserts. I bought a bottle; and was advised to keep it safely lest the bottle might burst (apparently signs of good honey; when bottled tight, bursts…!). Their warmth and hospitality surpassed their lack of business acumen and ‘edge’ that we hear all the time in the Metropolis. It was as if, the clock ticked very slow here…and no one wondered why!

Though a long journey for a day, the fatigue was never felt as it was a welcome change of scene – lots of contemplation, soothing Sufi music on the way, and nice chats with my friend, who took me all the way to show one of the most beautiful places in Sri Lanka…

Standing on top and watching the ranges gave a great sense of freedom. A greater sense of lightness. And a much greater feeling of humbleness.

Could not have spent a day in a better manner.